Method of making fur coats



April 1943- R. E. ALBRECHT v 2,316,387

METHOD OF MAKINGYFUR COATS Filed Oct. 18, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG. I.

l4 FIG. 3.

ROBERT E. ALBRECHT April 1943- R. E. ALBRECHT I 2,316,387

METHOD OF MAKING FUR COATS Filed Oct. 18, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 PatentedApr. 13, 1943 METHOD OF MAKING FUR. COATS Robert E. Albrecht, St. Paul,Minn., assignor to E. Albrecht & Son St. Paul, Minn, a corporation ofMinnesota Application October 18, 1941, Serial No. 415,576

8 Claims.

This invention relates to the method of making fur coats wherein afterthe fur has been sewed together and cut out in the fiat pattern for theparticular size and style of coat, the leather is prepared for theregular lining, and then the lining is attached in place.

The method includes preparing the leather for receiving the lining ofthe coat, and the first step of the method is the basting of the canvasdown the fronts and reinforcing the pockets with canvas which has beencut on the bias. The canvas reinforcing strips are attached by a sewingmachine which just catches the leather and does not sew through the fur.This first step is completed before the coat is joined and before thepockets have been cut in to insure perfect reinforcement of the pockets.The pockets are then sewed in by the fur machine and the coat isreturned to the operator of the interlining machine who sews down thepockets and covers the seam that has been created by putting in thepockets.

An interlining of flannel is then cut to the size and style of the coatwhich is basted directly to the leather of the coat, using an'interlining machine which attaches the flannel interlining with a staystitch without sewing through the fur, but just catching into theleather. Then the flannel interliner is trimmed close to the edge sothat there will be no bulkiness at the armscyes.

After the fur machine operator has joined the coat, it is returned tothe interlining machine where the inlays and sleeves are turned. It isthen given to the finisher who puts in the lining which has been made upwithout the flannel (as the flannel is already in the coat), the flannelhaving been attached directly to the leather but not attached to thelining of the .coat. This method overcomes bulkiness at the armscyes andfronts of the coat as well as at the neck line owing to the fact thatonly the lining is turned instead of the lining and the flannel.

This method has the advantage of providing a better construction inmaking a fur coat as the basting of the flannel to the leather acts toprotect the seams in the fur from wearing against the lining and alsoprevents the lining from saggmg.

By this method the lining of a fur coat may be accomplished moreeconomically and a tailored appearance is obtained as the method permitsthe tailoring of the coat with smooth seams and a smooth finished loweredge. The woolen liner is not attached to the lining proper of the coat,but is secured to the face of the leather by a stay stitch with aninterlining machine.

Heretofore in the old method of preparing a coat for lining, the coatwas entirely joined together and then it was given to the finisher whosewed the canvas down the fronts and around the pockets. The finisherwould then turn the inlays back and sew them down. The bottom edge andsleeves were finished in the same manner. The coat was then ready forlining. The lining cutter cut the flannel, fitted it to the coat, thencut the lining, and the lining and flannel were then basted together andsewed together by a machine. The lining with the flannel sewed theretowas then given to the finisher who put it in the fur coat. This oldmethod caused an excessive bulkiness, especially around the armscyeswhere the body lining and the sleeve lining made four thicknesses,making the coat materially smaller in the armscyes. In fur coats made bythis old method, the lining sagged after being worn. Further, in the oldmethod, the woolen liner rubbed against the leather, causing the nap ofthe liner to rub and wear and to roll up, making rough surfaces as wellas wearing the nap off and causing the same to work down to the loweredge of the lining and reinforcing liner. This was very undesirable. Thereinforcing woolen liner wouldalso become worn in spots and thus loseits effectiveness. With this new process, the woolen liner is attacheddirectly to the leather by stay stitch means around the sleeves orarmscyes and across the surface of the leather in the body of the coatat any point, in fact, in many difierent places so as to attach theliner in a manner so that it acts as a reinforcing means for the leatherof the fur coat.

To assist in describing this method of making fur coats, the drawingsillustrate in Figure l the inside or leather surface of the fur coat,showing the canvas reinforcingstrips attached down the front margins andat the pocket openings.

Figure 2 illustrates the manner in which the pockets are sewed in by thefur machine operator and the coat is then returned to the operator ofthe stay stitch or interlining machine, who sews down the pockets andcovers the seams that have been created by putting the pockets in, byturning the canvas liner back over the attached end of the pocket andstay stitching the same thereto.

Figure 3 illustrates the next step of the process which includesattaching the flannel liner by stay stitching and basting the same withthe interliner machine over various portions of the same to permanentlyattach the flannel interliner to the leather without sewing through thefur.

Figure 4 illustrates an enlarged detail of the stay stitch.

Figure 5 is a section on the line 5-5 of Figure 4.

Figure 6 is a section on the line 6-45 of Figure 4.

Figure 7 illustrates the leather side of the sleeves, showing the nextstep of the process where the inner flannel lining is stay stitched tothe face of the leather of the sleeves, and thus provides a reinforcingliner means for the leather of the sleeves.

Figure 8 illustrates th inside of the fur coat, showing the finishedliner attached over the flannel liner, the finishing liner being of silkor other finishing material to provide the smooth finishing liner forthe coat.

Figure 9 illustrates the finished liner sewed to one of the sleeves,illustrating the next step of the process after Figure 8.

Figure 10 is a section on the line |U-| of Figure 8.

Figure 11 is a section on the line of Figure 8.

Figure 12 is a section on the line |2--|2 of Figure 9.

In carrying out this method of making fur coats, it is desirable toprepare the leather surface H) of the fur coat A by reinforcing it withcanvas strips along the margins of the front edges, and the reinforcingstrips l2 over the pocket slits 3. The reinforcing members II and I2 aremade of canvas cut on the bias and are attached by stay stitching Mwhich is done by an interlining machine. The stay stitch I4 is moreclearly illustrated in Figures 4, and 6, which show the loops |5 sewedthrough the face ID of the leather of the coat, while the loops areconnected by the longitudinal thread I6. The stay stitching l4 bastesthe reinforcing strips H and I2 directly to the surface of the leatherwithout stitching through the fur, the needle of the machine hookingthrough a portion of the leather yet not penetrating through the same.

The process is carried out by attaching the pockets l8 over the slits l3and then stay stitching the free side of the pockets at l9 and turningthe flap |2' of the reinforcing strips |2 over the seam where the pocketis attached to the slit to cover the seam with the reinforcing flap |2,the free edge of which is held in place over the pocket and the seam bythe stay stitching 20.

The next step of this method of making fur coats resides in attachingthe reinforcing flannel or woolen liner 2| over the leather face IU ofthe coat A. The drawings show the coat A cut out in the pattern andstyle of the coat as it would appear from the leather side of the fur.The flannel liner 2| is stay stitched by the stay stitching I4marginally along the front edges and down the center of the body of thecoat and at different places in the body so as to securely andpermanently attach the liner 2| to the leather of the coat A. Thus theliner 2| provides a reinforcing means over the leather and covers theseams of the leather being fixed so that it moves with the leathervirtually as a part thereof, and thus protects the finishing liner 22which is attached over the fixed inner liner 2| in the next step of thismethod and as illustrated in Figure 8.

The sleeves B of the coat A are finished in the same manner as the bodyof the coat A, by

stay stitching with the stitches M, the inner flannel or woolen liner23. The stay stitching may extend marginally or around the periphery ofthe liner 23 and down through the body of the same as illustrated inFigure 7.

It is also apparent that the stay stitching l4 may be placed in anyposition to attach the liners 2| and 23 in a manner to lie fiat againstthe leather In of the body of the coat A and the leather 24 of thesleeves B.

The finishing liner 22 which may be of silk, satin, or any othersuitable and desirable material to finish the inside surface of the furcoat A is attached by marginal stitching 25. It will be apparent thatwith this method of making and finishing fur coats, the marginal edgesat the armscyes 26 for the sleeves and the marginal edges 21 down thefront of the coat, as well as the lower edge 28, are finished flat andsmooth without a bulky thick seam as was the case in the old method ofmaking fur coats.

Thus this method provides a tailored appearance to the whole coat A whenfinished and overcomes the sagging or bulging at the different finishingpoints. The margin down the front edges 21 of the coat A have the furturned in marginally at 29 and then are stitched by the stitching 25,which attaches the finishing liner 22 to the marginal inturned edge ofthe fur at 29 so as to provide a finish along the front edges of thecoat, as is more clearly shown by the cross section in Figure 10. Itwill also be apparent that the inner woolen liner 2| which is attachedby the stay stitching l4, lies flat against the surface IU of theleather and is entirely free from the inner finishing liner 22.

The bottom edge 28 of the coat A is finished by the stitching 25 whichattaches the lower edge of the inner liner 22 marginally directly to theface l0 of the leather to provide a fiat tailored lower edge 23 asillustrated in the section of Figure 11. Here again, the woolen liner 2|is shown attached by the stay stitching I I which holds this liner as areinforcing flat against the leather of the fur coat and yet entirelyfree from the lining 22.

The inner finishing silk or satin liner 30 for the sleeves B is attachedmarginally by the stitching 3| which is similar to the stitching 25which directly attaches the liner 3!] to the face 24 of the leather ofthe sleeves B in the same manner as the lower edge 28 is formed and asillustrated by the section of Figure 11. Thus the marginal edges aroundthe periphery of the sleeves B in their flat state as illustrated inFigure 9, are fiinished as the cross section Figure 11 illustrates, withthe reinforcing woolen liner 23 spaced marginally from the edge of theperiphery of the sleeves B as illustrated in Figure 12.

After the liner 22 of the body of the coat A and the liners 30 of thesleeves, have been stitched in place, the coat may be sewed together inthe usual manner, and it will be apparent that the finishing seams willbe smooth, comparatively thin and not bulky, and that a finer tailoringwhere the sleeves are joined to the body of the coat as well as aroundthe marginal edges of the coat and at the pockets is accomplished.

Thus this method provides a tailoring of a fur coat with smooth seamsand a smooth finished lower edge, and a reinforcing woolen liner whichis secured to the surface of the leather by stay stitching and isadapted to act as a strengthening means over the leather and forms ashield over the seams of the leather to protect the finishing liner fromrubbing against the leather. The woolen liner is not attached to thefinishing liner which is free to move with the movement of the body ofthe wearer of the coat. The silk, satin or other form of lining can betailored and finished before it is placed as a liner in the fur coat.This finishing liner is not attached to the woolen reinforcing liner butis secured to the marginal edge of the leather of the fur coat, thusgiving a very neat tailored appearance to the edges of the finishedcoat. Further, by this method, a fur coat can be made more economicallythan by old methods and yet have a finer tailored appearance, permittingthe accentuation of the style of the coat.

It is of primary importance that this new method of making fur coatsprovides a fiat smooth surface over the body of the coat and permits asmooth tailored finish to be accomplished in the attachment of thesleeves, as well as permitting the marginal edges to be flat and smoothand therefore giving a very clean-cut tailored finish or styling to afur coat which has not been possible with old methods used heretofore.

I claim:

1. The method of making fur coats comprising surface sewing aninterliner directly to the leather of the fur at spaced intervals tohold the interliner fiat against and in fixed position to the leather,and then sewing a finishing liner of the coat to the free peripheraledges of the coat.

2. The method of making fur coats comprising surface sewing aninterliner directly to the leather of the fur at spaced intervals tohold the interliner flat against and virtually fixed to the leather, andaround the marginal edges over the leather of the pockets and around thepocket openings and over the body of the sleeves, and then sewing thefinished tailored liner to the marginal edges of the fur coat and thesleeves to provide a freely disposed smooth tailored finish to theentire finishing liner of the coat.

3. The method of making a fur coat consisting in stay stitching to thesurface of the leather along the front portions of the body and over thepocket openings sheet-like reinforcing material, then stay stitching tothe surface of the leather a woolen liner which is adapted to cover theseams of the leather and is cut to extend to a marginal space around theperiphery of the body of the coat, the stay stitching of the woolenliner extending at spaced intervals over the body of the leather of thecoat to firmly fix the woolen liner to the leather, then attaching afinished silk or satin liner marginally to the body of the coat butleaving the silk or satin liner free excepting where it is attached,then covering the sleeve leather of the coat with a woolen liner, staystitching the same to fix it to the leather of the sleeves, and sewingthe finished sleeve silk or satin liners to the marginal edges of thesleeves, then sewing the sleeves into the armscyes of the coat andjoining the body portions of the coat together to complete the same,providing a fur coat with a smooth tailored finish and with the silk orsatin liner free of attachment with the woolen liner, and the leather ofthe coat excepting at the margins thereof.

4. The method of making fur coats consisting in sewing the body of thecoat together in its flat formation, then attaching reinforcing canvasstrips to the inner surfaces by stay stitching the same to the leatherto protect the pocket openings and strengthen the portions over which 3the canvas is attached in its flat state, then attaching a woolen linerto the body of the leather of the coat by stay stitching at spacedintervals, the woolen liner being cut and sewed together in the propershape and style and having its peripheral edge spaced from theperipheral marginal edge of the leather of the fur coat, then attachingmarginally a satin, silk or other finishing liner to the marginal edgeof the leather of the fur coat independent of and not attached to thewoolen liner, giving a flat smooth tailored finish marginally of thecoat, with fiat joints and seams, giving a tailored finish and stylingto the completed fur coat.

5. The method of preparing the leather of fur coats for receiving andsecuring the finishing liner, consisting in stay stitching reinforcingmaterial down the fronts of the coat and over the pocket openings toattach the reinforcing to the surface of the leather lying entirely fiatover the same, then attaching the pockets adjacent the pocket openingsand securing a portion of the reinforcing material over the seam of theattached pockets, then stay stitching a fiat woolen liner to the surfaceof the leather with the marginal edge of the woolen liner spaced fromthe marginal edge of the leather about the periphery of the coat toleave a bare leather portion about the periphery of the body of thecoat, and stay stitching in the same manner a Woolen liner over theleather of the sleeves of the coat, with the marginal edge of theleather left bare of the woolen liner, then attaching a finished satinor silk liner to the bare marginal edges of the leather free of thewoolen liner throughout the body thereof and attaching the satin or silkor other liner to the bare marginal edges of the sleeves in the samemanner as the finishing liner is attached to the body of the coat, thenconnecting the sleeves to the armscyes of the coat, and completing thesewing of the edges of the coat together to finish the coat, whereby theadjoining seams of the coat, sleeves, the front edge and the lower edgeof the fur coat, are formed with a flat smooth tailored finish, and theinner finishing liner of the coat and sleeves is free to move over thewoolen liner without drawing or pulling or rubbing against the leather.

6. The method of making fur coats including attaching a reinforcing tothe surface of the leather and covering the inner surface of the leatherwith a woolen liner by attaching the same at intervals with a flat staystitch which does not penetrate through the leather, attaching a woolenliner to the sleeves in the same manner and then marginally attaching afinishing liner which covers the entire woolen liner but is not attachedthereto over the body and the sleeves of the coat, providing flatmarginal finished edges which can be joined together to attach thesleeves to the armscyes and to connect the adjoining edges of the coatto form the same in the desired style and to provide the coat with alower fiat tailored edge which will not bulge or sag, and providing afur coat with an inner reinforcing liner directly attached to theleather of the coat, and leaving the finishing liner free to move withthe body of the wearer without drawing or pulling against thereinforcing liner or the leather.

'7. The method of making fur coats consisting in covering the leatherwith a reinforcing sheet textile material by stay stitching the samedirectly to the leather of the coat, and attaching a finishing linermarginally to the coat with comparatively flat marginal edges andentirely free of the interliner which is secured to the leather, therebyproviding a means of reinforcing the leather and leaving the innerfinishing liner thereof freely disposed over its entire body to givefree movement of the finishing liner with the body of the wearer,preventing rubbing of the finishing liner on the leather of the coat,and overcoming bulkiness at the armscyes, the front edges, the neckline,the sleeve edges, and the lower edge of the coat, thereby preventingsagging and bulging of the lining.

8. The method of making fur coats consisting in first reinforcing theleather of the body of the coat by stay stitching strips of reinforcingmaterial cut on the bias, then attaching the pockets in place andcovering the seam of the pocket with flat reinforcing material, thenattaching in a fiat died-out state a reinforcing liner by stay stitchingthe same at spaced intervals to the surface of the leather of the bodyof the coat, and to the surface of the leather of the sleeves of thecoat, then attaching a finished liner marginally of the sleeves and thebody of the coat, but unattached to the inner reinforcing liner, wherebya fur coat may be joined together with a finished tailored smoothstyling at the seams, margins and lower edge, giving a fiat finishedappearance which adds to the styling and attractiveness of the coat.

ROBERT E ALBRECHT.

